Sunday, 18 May 2008

We will soon need the earplugs!

It is quite bizarre, living on an island with only 6 people and before too long it is very likely that I am going to need earplugs to sleep. No it isn’t because Melv has started to snore, but because we are starting to share this beautiful place with thousands upon thousands of birds!!

The last few weeks we have noticed the numbers of sooty terns, lesser and brown noddys increase dramatically. Well over the last few days they have started to come in off the sea in large numbers and are now appearing in all kinds of places, and that includes our tin roof!
When I first heard that there were 1.25 million birds on the 70ha of Aride I wondered where they all live, well now I am beginning to understand – everywhere!

When you are out at sea and look back at the island, especially early morning or at dusk, the seabirds are like a large swarm of bees gathering over the tops of the hill, they come together in clouds and circle in huge numbers. In fact another analogy comes to mind – it is like the Somerset starling roost, without the people.

This morning as I sat on my log seat for our 7am meeting in the village, I faced the long wide path lined with trees that leads to the rather splendid restored Plantation Lodge. As I looked, the avenue was full of lesser noddys all flying around in a somewhat coordinated but chaotic way. They looked beautiful, so delicate with their long slender wings, pale heads and slim bodies. At this time in the morning, the sun is still rather low and the path to the Lodge is shady, so many of the birds just appeared as moving shapes and silhouettes. Their all brown bodies were like moving shadows; gracefully dancing in mid air, with a flutter and a glide. They are such delicate birds their pale heads shining forward like a head torch coming through the sea spray as they fly towards you.

Every Sunday morning we rake the paths ready for guests to the island and this morning I knew it was going to be a treat and I wasn't disappointed. As I made my way along the crest path, all the noddys were busy collecting nesting material. They hover over the ground trying to select and then pick up leaves without touching down. It is almost like a game for them as they use their agility to gain the material they need to nest build. They often do this on the beach collecting seaweed, or even over the surface of the water itself. It is excellent to watch and the amount of birds doing this today had dramatically increased from yesterday. As I continued, I walked underneath an area where the lessers are starting to group together in a colony, my presence made them start to cackle and chuckle in a chorus as they looked down at me curious.

The larger brown noddys stand in groups on the path and they are less tolerant and far more aggressive, looking disgruntled as you move them on. They are quite bulky birds, with a call most un-tern like, but similar to that of a crow. They too are now starting to establish territories and are settling in a wide range of places, from the crowns of coconut palms to our tin roof. Their head markings are beautiful, with the finest detail, and immaculate definition around the eye. But they always seem to wear a frown and as you approach them they eye you up and down before flying off and often stand their ground following you with their eyes, like the Mona Lisa.

Along this stretch of path there now seems to be far more fairy terns around too, as they hover very close to your head making their electronic call. You can often feel the wind displaced by their wings as they un-aggressively fly around you. With their pure white plumage they look like little angels, dancing against the blue sky.

Walking this path is always a treat – when we first arrived here it felt like the island was alive, now it just feels like the whole place is moving with wildlife. It is everywhere, the sky is starting to fill with birds, as is the sea, the woodland, the plateau, the beach and our tin roof - it is wonderful - what a place to live!!

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